Update: Everett K’s Unidentified Old 10-Speed

Posted

This is an update post for Everett K’s very nice (still) unidentified fancy old 10-speed. Beautiful restoration.

Hi Cameron,

Just finished the restoration of my dad’s old bike. I sent in pics a while ago of its “before” state. Here’s some pics now that it’s just about finished. I just need to swap out the blue tape on the pump for black and add some orange pin-striping on the lugs.

Still no idea what kind of frame it is. When I blasted it, I found it has Campy drop-outs in addition to the Nervex lugs I knew about. The serial number was pretty much scraped off years ago.

Everett K

Thanks Everett

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  • older1

    Very nice work, Everett!
    The new black hoods/tape/saddle/tires really look great on the excellent green frame/fork.
    Good job!

    • Everett K

      Thanks! It’s such a classic frame and set-up and I didn’t really want to get too far away from that.

      Since I took these pics, I’ve had to replace the freewheel, and judging from the cones, am going to need to replace the hubs/wheels sooner than later. After that, it will probably be the handlebars, which are heavily pitted.

      • older1

        I always like to see aero levers on any road bike, too: they do so much to clean up the look of the front end.
        It’s hard to tell from the photos if your rims are alloy, but if they’re chrome, or they are damaged/warped in any way, or if the spoke nipples are siezed, definitely replace the wheels for performance resons alone. Be aware of rear spacing/freehub pitfalls if you consider a 700c conversion, though!
        If you discover rebuilding wheels is too expensive/intimidating, and you decide to find new wheels (since used ones may have the same issues), new 27″ q.r. alloy wheel assemblies are still available (at decent prices) from a few reliable sources, like QBP and Niagra Cycle. You may be able to let a local bike shop order them for you, so you can ask them if they can check them for any shipping damage before you hand over your cash.
        In my experience, cones, along with the balls, usually go bad before the cups, so you may still be able to find new cones, even if they aren’t “direct replacements”.
        As long as the balls “ride” between the two radiused bearing surfaces, they should be fine. If the bike doesn’t use commonly available replacement components, your axle threads may not match any cone threads, so you can probably expect to replace the axles, too.

  • mark lapakko

    I think the bike might be a Steyr. I sold one similar. Decals were almost gone.